Jaipur

Just when you think you’ve seen the ultimate Indian fort, we were left speechless as we entered the court yard of the Amber Fort to the sounds of drums and a curly woodwind instrument playing a hypnotic one-note dance-y number and elephants parading around and out of the gates.  It’s touristy but awesome.


The Amber Fort is more like a palace and is the old state capital of Jaipur state. Its Rajput architecture is magnificent with all its glorious mirrored rooms and courtyards for the maharaja’s wives and concubines. We did this tour with a guide this time, which always has its ups and downs.

In front of a palace in the lake we fed the black fish with bits of dough given to us by some kids. The water was so black it was like something out of the lake from Springfield in The Simpsons. We then headed to Jantar mantar, an ancient observatory, which resembled something out of a Dali painting, with its myriad of sundials and astrological devices. It was also a place where letchy locals can take photographs of western female tourists (it’s always nice when you’re not wanted in a photograph but you’re in it anyway).

Amazingly the sundials actually work and give accurate local Jaipur time (apparently). There are also devices to tell your zodiac sign as well as your ascendency (essentially a two-hour window which means something when you are born).

Next door – the city palace was more of the sign – beautiful architecture, opulent furniture and tourist gaggles. It’s a bit like Buckingham Palace, in that the current King of Rajasthan lives here, a 16-year old boy.

All this before lunch. By 2 o’clock we were desperate for some food and to ditch the guide, which we did after the usual haggling over money (following his insistence all day that it was a free tour).

However, the markets at Jaipur are great. Lots and lots of old shops, little in the way of tourists and tourist tat, and a lot in the way of locals sitting in shops trying and buying the wares. A perfect place to stock up on presents and pashmina scarves!

Knackered we made our way to the eye-watering luxurious Rambagh Palace Hotel and relaxed on the beautiful lawns with a cup of Darjeeling tea before heading inside for some alcoholic refreshment (it didn’t take that long!). Contented and rested we hired a rickshaw and headed back to the Haveli for a home cooked, but awkward, meal with the owner with the staff standing around our table. There was no one else staying there that night and the dining room was empty!